My Ricoh GRiii has a custom setting called "One Push AE in M Mode".
It can be assigned to any one of several buttons on the camera and then when in manual mode you press the button and it automatically adjusts either the aperture, the shutter speed, or both (depending on another custom setting).
So then even in manual mode you only need one button to get a proper EV. This makes manual mode so much faster...
Another way around it would be to save a couple of different setups to your C1, C2 modes.
Of course. But that only works if a large aperture lens is available for the format. There's not any 12-35 or 35-100 f1.4 zooms for m4/3 like there are 2.8 zooms in 135 format, so I use primes, and change lenses. Of late I've done something I swore I'd never do, and that's carry 2 bodies. I bought 2 G100's for screaming good prices ($500 Au brand spanking new) so I'm giving that a spin at the moment.
Here's my 135 format 2.8 equivalent wandering about kit. If there's going to be plenty of room, I'll throw in my Siggy 56 1.4. If I'm concerned about weight, I'll leave one body at home. If I want less lens changing with a single body, I'll chuck in my 12-35 f2.8 mkII, and my PL9mm. And live with the slower aperture. If I want significantly better low light performance, I'll have to go to f0.95 primes in m4/3, or f1.4-f2 primes in 135 format. Both of which will give shallower DOF. It's nice to have options, I shoot what i enjoy shooting with.
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The G100's actually do better than I ever thought they would, even with moving subjects and a cheap zoom. In good light
Yes, that would be nice.
On my 90D I have the minimum shutter speed menu item copied to the first page of my custom menus so it is very quick and easy to access but but not as quick as a direct control on the back of the camera.
The same advantage as when hand-holding. On a tripod, after setting aperture and shutter speed for dof and blur I meter the scene and let the camera set ISO. I then have the option to lock in that ISO, or any other value, or leave ISO on Auto depending on what I am doing.
Sometimes I will have the camera mounted on a tripod aimed at a particular scene and take photos at any time over a few hours. The lighting might change a bit over that time, especially when outdoors, so Auto ISO works well for me in that case since the aperture and shutter speed remain constant.
IMO, general in-camera metering is one of the worst ways to control the highlight levels. The histogram and zebras are better, especially if you've taken care with your JPEG settings. You could argue for placing diffuse highlights on Zone VII or Zone IX, but that's more complicated and slower than just looking at the histogram and the zebras.
If you are worried about the light changing and are too busy to look at the histos, why not just set the ISO a bit lower than you'd normally set it?
Yes, I agree the histogram and blinkies (in my case with the 90D) is better, especially shooting raw, but after setting the optimal exposure**, where ISO lands with Auto ISO is not a big deal for me as long as important highlights are not clipped. I set the final image lightness in post.
* exposure - amount of light that struck the sensor per unit area while the shutter was open
** optimal exposure - the maximum exposure* within dof and motion blur requirements without clipping important highlights.
*** under exposed - more exposure* could have been added with the DOF and blur constraints still being met without clipping important highlights.
Bolding is mine. If you let the camera set the ISO, you have lost precise control of the relationship of the highlights to clipping.
But only if I ignore the histogram is it not?
I take a shot, look at the histogram and if it doesn't show highlight clipping then the ISO the camera set is largely irrelevant since I have set optimal exposure**, isn't it?
* exposure - amount of light that struck the sensor per unit area while the shutter was open
** optimal exposure - the maximum exposure* within dof and motion blur requirements without clipping important highlights.
*** under exposed - more exposure* could have been added with the DOF and blur constraints still being met without clipping important highlights.
From last night, an out of camera jpeg with a tiny bit of editing resized vs a raw with a trip through Pure raw. Floating ISO. Pretty darn close for simply letting the camera do 90% of the work.
You shot it at 1/100 of a second @ 24mm, and used a flash -the great subject noise eliminator. Odd choice of settings
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You can't win much by setting ISO so that the image highlights are close to clipping. However, you can lose big if it's clipped. I thought you were trusting the camera to adjust ISO as the light changes. If you're going to look at the histogram all the time, you might as well change the ISO yourself.
Why let the camera choose a setting that can't help you much but can hurt you big time?
On my 90D I have never seen highlights clipped due to Auto ISO when the camera set ISO above base.
If anything, in my experience the 90D is over cautious with Auto ISO.
I would think that depends on the metering used. Does 90D have only one kind of metering?
No it doesn't.
Then you are saying that regardless of the metering selected, Auto-ISO does not clip highlights. I do not believe that,
